![]() ![]() After truing one edge at the jointer, I hand planed one face flat and true and surfaced the opposite face in the planer. I found a piece of 8/4 maple, 8" wide and just long enough for the three treads. By this time I had used up all the free 9/16" stock. The last step was to make the decorative treads for each step. Positions marked on the stile showįigure 14 - Grooves in the rails can be cut end to end.īe sure to use a stop block since the spinning bit will beĪfter the doors were dry, I routed a small profile along all the edges and set the doors aside. I used a 90-degree brace during assembly to further assure the doors were square.įigure 13 - Carefully lower the stile onto the spinning bit toĬut the stopped groove. Since plywood panels will not shrink or expand appreciably in doors this size, I glued the panels in as I glued up the rails and stiles on the doors. The grooves in the rails run full length. I cut the Festool Domino mortises in the rail and stile stock, then marked the locations of the rails carefully and routed stopped grooves in the stiles. Expediency led me to some 7/32" thick maple plywood scrap for door inserts. Rails and stiles for the doors were cut from the same 9/16" thick stock, but were made 1-3/8" wide. While those assemblies were drying I started prepping stock for the doors. The boxes were glued up and the face frames added at the same time, because the face frames would assure the boxes were square. I cut a rabbet in each upright panel at the router table. I ripped stock to width from a 4 X 8 sheet of plywood using the Festool TS-55 and Guide Rail, then cross cut the pieces to size on the miter saw. This methodology assured that the "floor" of each cabinet would be even with the face frame. The width was made exactly the same as each face frame pair. This became the height dimension of each plywood carcase. Then I measured from the inside edge of the bottom of each face frame pair to the top edge and added ?". I jointed the stock, ripped it to width, then joined the face frames at the corners with Festool Dominos. In order that the stairs might be used in any orientation, I decided to make face frames and doors for both sides of each box. Parts were glued up together, the face frames The sketch was starting to look better.įigure 10 - The assembled face frame and box I decided to use ?" (nominal) maple plywood for the carcase sides, build the face frame first with rails and stiles just 1-1/2" wide, and then size the doors accordingly. The stock was all quarter-sawn, 9/16" thick, dry and flat. a couple of clamps and a cornerĪ while back a reader sent me a small stack of thin maple stock to try, and it looked perfect for this scaled-down cabinet project. Making this project look good would require scaling sizes back a bit to fit the project.įigure 9 - Face frame glue-ups are easy withĭomino joinery. Typical ?" thick 2-1/4" wide rails and stiles were too big and ?" plywood looked too bulky. Right to get the Domino positioned dead centerįigure 8 - Another quick jig made sure Domino mortisesīut when I started to sketch out the design, it looked chunky and funky. A face frame and door on each box would provide some much needed additional storage, plywood sides would make it quick, pretty hardwood face frames would make it "inside-the-house" acceptable.įigure 7 - A piece of 1/8" hardboard under the stiles was just Three boxes, in graduating height, joined together to form a stair step design. When a set of pet steps finally got to the top of the honey-do list, it seemed logical to simply build them like upper cabinets for a kitchen. ![]() ![]() There have been some incremental changes in tools and techniques, but the basic dimensions and proportions haven't changed much at all. I have built so many kitchen cabinets over the years I can do it without much thought. Click on any picture to see a larger version. ![]()
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